Published on 3. March 2021
Pizza or Focaccia?
In the opening in 2014, there was no doubt that the pizza would be destined to be king at BÆST. But from the very beginning, I wanted there to be a pizza at Mirabelle too – it just couldn’t be the exact same.
BÆST is built around the wood-fired oven that fires up 450 c like nothing else. That cooks a pizza very swiftly in the combination of the large and warm mass ovens bottom releasing heat upwards and the flames giving both smoke and color from above.
I don’t believe that you can achieve anything close to that quality in electrical ovens. Those require a different approach that gives you a completely different, but just as tasty result.
Such a pizza bakes well in a tray, still at high heat, and preferably in a mass oven – which essentially means that there is a stone in the bottom of it. In Italy, you would call that a Roman pizza. In Rome tradition prescribes that you bake pizza in trays until crispy in the bottom and then cut it with scissors. The customer orders per weight and picks between different flavors available.
On an inspiring trip to Italy prior to opening Bæst and Mirabelle, we went to visit the legendary Bonci Pizzarium that specializes in just that.
So when opening op Mirabelle it was the obvious choice to try and present that to the Danish crowd. Particularly for lunch, it seemed to be straightforward as it resembled a sort of Italian “open sandwich” variation.
Unfortunately, it didn’t seem to take off back then. But luckily I get quite hard-headed when I feel I am on to something so I re-launched it again under another name – this time it would be called Focaccia, which is what you would call it where I am from in Sicily. This was just a cause for even further confusion and after a moment of rare democracy I accepted for it to be called pizza again. Luckily with a much better response lately.
When we will (hopefully) re-open Mirabelle again – hopefully in March 2021 then you can look forward to being served Roman pizza or Sicilian focaccia again. In the meantime, I have, while missing Mirabelle greatly during this lockdown, made a simplified recipe for the home kitchen. I call for that same approach in this one, don’t try making a round Neapolitan style pizza that often will disappoint at home – rather wait for BÆST to reopen and let us whip that up for you. Instead, make a square pizza in a tray with a crispy bottom and a spongy and caramelized top. – It will be fantastic.