Published on 7. February 2020
Five Manfreds Regulars On Why They Return
A Finnish chef, a French foodie, and more. Manfreds have gained regulars from all over.
“Manfreds is the kind of place I would love to have in my neighborhood: Open every day, natural wines, delicious and sustainable food, relaxed, fairly priced.
When Manfreds opened it was the missing piece in the Copenhagen food & wine scene. They showed it was possible to cook good food and enjoy a large selection of natural wines in a relaxing atmosphere while caring about sustainability and keeping the philosophy of the mother restaurant Relæ. No doubt they have inspired many others. This model was the future, not only in Copenhagen but in many other cities in Europe. For several years we’ve seen many Manfreds-like places popping up across Europe with the same concept and values, and offering the same kind of pleasures. Bravo.”
“Manfreds is most likely the restaurant in Copenhagen, I’ve been to the most. I live just around the corner from Manfreds, and I remember I thought it was brave when Christian F. Puglisi opened the restaurant at that corner 10 years ago. Back then the corner was occupied by the drug dealers of Jægersborggade, and the former owner of the takeaway and everyday-eatery was tired of the many confrontations. In many ways, Manfreds was part of changing the street with many of the ‘early’ places like Coffee Collective, Meyers Bageri, and Karamelleriet. Suddenly it was hard to do shady business when all of us normal citizens flocked to the street to eat and drink well.
At Manfreds I eat grand, messy family dinners or meet with a friend for long conversations through a lengthy dinner. I buy shared dishes and a single glass of wine in the bar with my husband on a spontaneous weekday. Or I get drunk with my friends in the room in the back, where you can be a bit noisier. And then I’ve picked up a lot of take-away. I’m SO happy that the concept is back, so my family and I can eat non-junk, lovely take-away on days, where there’s not enough time. From the best produce, most importantly, because my life is too short and the room in my stomach is too precious to fill it with mistreated, dilated chicken and pesticide infected vegetables.
In many ways, Manfreds was the front runner for the type of restaurants and wine bars which are everywhere in Copenhagen now. It might be too far fetched to call it the Manfreds-effect, but God knows how many former chefs, sommeliers and waiters from Manfreds, who today run their own restaurants, wine shops, B&B’s, in Copenhagen, England, France, USA, Italy, and probably much more. So we, who love to eat and drink well, have a lot to be grateful to Manfreds about.”
Marie Holm is a Danish food journalist, dessert preacher, and an author of cookbooks.
“Manfreds has been the front runner on organic gastronomy and has put attention to restaurants not only giving grand promises but also committing to fulfill them. Manfreds has also created a wave of eateries in the middle price range where good food and (natural) wines are accessible to a much bigger audience than just the guests of Michelin restaurants. Animal welfare and the use of the whole animal (which is the true nose-to-tail idea) is also something Manfreds together with Relæ has been pushing forward and now has become a stable trend in the restaurant world.
Manfreds has also meant a lot to Jægersborggade. The early days are very special to me. At one point we got lunch from Manfreds at work. It was something special to come in to pick up lunch, only to meet a sommelier thrilled by a lightly oxidized natural wine we just had to taste. This enthusiasm for both wine and food, I’ll never forget.”
Klaus Thomsen is the co-founder of Coffee Collective.
“I will never forget my first time at Manfreds. Lunch, alone, Chef’s choice – so many amazing dishes and most of them with only one wine – Riffault’s Les Quarterons Sancerre! I was sure that I needed a glass of red with the lamb and thyme main course, but no. Perfect match.
Manfreds to me is the ultimate go-to place for a no-limits, have fun with friends-thing. And not living in Denmark, I have to get there every time I’m in town.
From my perspective, being a no-waste chef, Manfreds has been trickling this amazing need for a relaxed but responsible way of eating throughout the world. Natural food, natural wine, locally roasted coffee. It’s everywhere now! A huge inspiration for everyone.”
Sasu Laukkonen is Chef and Partner at ORA Restaurant in Helsinki.
“The World’s best restaurant” is one where I can go on a daily basis, one where I know the staff and the food, but where it still surprises me on every visit. Manfreds is exactly that.
I love that a veggie-focused restaurant has become world-famous for its tartare. So many chefs have come, trying to analyze it, going back to their restaurants… and failed. Copying is recognition and the influence of Manfreds goes way beyond raw meat, inspiring chefs to rethink the stereotypes of vegetarian cooking.”
Per-Anders Jörgensen is a photographer and has worked with Christian F. Puglisi, Relæ, and Manfreds even before they opened.
Manfreds turns 10 years on 13 February. We celebrate with one week of natural wines, shared dishes as you know it, and a dinner with the greatest hits from Manfreds throughout the years.